While channel surfing I caught some scenes of some guy surfing in what appeared to be Hawaii and it got me thinking how much I am NOT a surfer.
I hate being in the ocean over my head. I love the Ocean, but I get really scared when there is water and who knows what creatures are between me and the bottom. I am an ok, not great swimmer but an EXCELLENT floater. I have always been afraid when swimming in the ocean to go much further than waist deep. Maybe its because of seeing Jaws at such a young age. Now there are some really great scary ocean scenes in that movie. I can watch it over and over again. I have tried snorkeling a few times, but ehh, I could do without. I was really scared when we were like 10 feet from a very large baracuda....I was with Jack my brother in Key West and just GRABBED his hand for dear life and swam VERY close to him. I do LOVE being on a boat though, go figure.
Watching the dude paddle way out to the big waves I thought how scary that would be for me. And the thought popped in my head about how a man on a surfboard from beneath to a shark resembles a walrus or seal....basically, shark food...I must have gotten that fact on the Discovery Channel during Shark week.
As the surfer stepped up and started to catch the waive, I thought how scary that would be to ride a huge waive like he was. I thought about how it would hurt if you fell and the board popped you on the head. I wondered if the speed would make me nervous. I have always also wondered how in the world do they avoid the other surfers, but I guess that just takes control of the board.
It truly must be an awesome feeling flying along on that board. I love the Ocean, the smells, the breezes, the sounds...to become a part of the waive, wow, that would be cool.
But umm, no thanks.
It's been awhile
2 weeks ago